Wednesday 30 September 2009

1st night in rio

evenin!

rio´s great. its official. instead of the football we went on a walkaround tour of the city today (not with any guide, just with some dots on a map) accompanied by louis (a recent graduate from cameroon living in DC) and michelle (some nutty belgian campervan owner who handily enough lives in gent where theres a massive street festival)



tonight was kinda wierd, bit like a swing night...but latino. only couples danced and the band were awesome. they also drink these strange lemony cocktails with what i think was tequila in them. but it couldbt be or else i wouldnt have wanted them. and i did. lots.

wicked chicken-based meal nearby too - heres us:



i think were gonna have to get another coach for the next bit. boo. its like, 170 quid for a flight and i cant justify that for an hours airtime. the alternative is 23 hours on a bus, but if we convince ourselves that we´ll see some nice things out the window and that another day in rio AND the nights acommodation isnt worth that much to us then itll be fine, right?

anyhoo - time for bed. favela tour tomorrow apparently. and we MUST do some laundry, theres only so much a compression sack can contain.

bye!

PS - thanks for the messages from home and from those we met on this trip too, they mean the absolute world xxx

On the busses

ello :)

so....the last few days has been a bus tour of a small section of the coast of brazil. we started off in salvador and got an overnight bus to porto seguro. clearly we needed to pass the time so we armed ourselves with a 4 quid bottle of rum and some coca cola. check out the stereotype branding.....nice.


an overnight coach took us to porto seguro which is basically coastal brazil's answer to bournemouth. proper seaside town that loads of brazilians go to on holiday. lots of shops selling lilos and cheap cafes selling pay-by-weight grub. top.

we had a look around then decided the best thing to do with this day would be to hire this:



cue much hilarity driving up and down the coast and generally feeling like something out of herbie goes to monte carlo. i swear, the thing was a bug with a different shell on it. loadsaloadsa fun! theres a movie file on the way once ive had a chance to edit all the videos we took....seriously fun few hours was had. amazing scenery and a great way to break my driving-on-the-right-hand-side duck.

quite knackered, another coach overnight took us to vitoria which, to be frank, was a bit of a shithole. not much to do and not really a tourist town. was great to see some of the slightly real-er side of brazil but when you have 12 hours till your coach and nothing to do this can prove a problem after the novelty has worn off ;)

luckily, we found a completely gorgeous park to hang out in and catch up on some chilling-out time.





played shitloads of backgammon and met a lovely local lad called ezekiel who wants to learn english so we all got some language practice. ive subsequently decided that foreign email-pals are gonna be a really handy way to learn languages for future travelling expeditions. wicked.

they even had those really cool tables with chequers boards built into them. as modelled here by trickys glasses. if neo played chess, i reckon he'd look like this ;)



yet another overnight coach (and stinking to high heaven) we managed to get our hungover arses to rio with plenty to show for it. im REALLY glad we didnt just fly back down - the coaches cost more than the flights but we got to see 2 more places and get a load of new fun things in. plus, the coaches were the plushest ever. one for sophie here - it would seem we no longer have to pity tall people on public transport! well, as long as they only get long-haul coaches in brazil....check out the legroom - as modelled of course by the smallest-legged person in the world:



so yeah, thats about it. in rio now and i reckon a couple of tours today. theres a favela (slum) tour which seems odd but is apparently really good and i do wanna see some of that bit while im here so if theres a way to do it safely....plus, i never thought id say this again but, i think im going to a football match a bit later too. when in rome n all that.

thatll do for now then, much love!

Sunday 27 September 2009

lovely relaxing couple of days


salvador's been lovely. nice food, lovely people, lovely hostel and pancakes made out of powder. never actually making it into the town was a bot of a shame but the nice little suburb has proven a welcome break for a couple of nights.

buffet-by-weight (genius idea) for lunch, hammocks and backgammon today. off on the busses now, time to see what some slightly smaller places down the east coast have to say!

bye!
yo

all's good here in sunny salvador, brazil. it's been about 35 and blue skies since we arrived. in following the tradition of salvador, which is mostly a holiday resort for brazilians from the bigger southern cities, we've been spending our time relaxing and chilling out in hammocks, some book reading, bit of beach action, chatting to fellow travellers, and some bars and restaurants... :)

we're off tonight on a three day road trip to rio, firstly stopping at peurto seugro (sp?) tomorrow, then vitoria the day after, then arriving at rio de janiero on wednesday where we have a nice place booked right on copacabana beach and the cocktails will be awaiting our arrival..

Txx

Friday 25 September 2009

peru leg over!!!


hi there all!

been a while since the last entry but trust me, we've been busy and away from the internet pretty much cnostantly ;) peru is an amazing country and to be honest im a lickle sad to be leaving such lovely people (both locals and new friends from the trek) and the most amazing scenery ive ever clapped eyes on in my life. totally ticked the box for seeing the andes from the air and land!

so yeah, day 3 was a bus tour of cuzco and the surrounding interesting stuff. highlight for me was the temple of the 3 lightnings which is just unbelievable and was our first proper glimpse of how good the architecture that we came to see really is.



the church in cuzco was also pretty damn impressive



tricky made a friend at the water temple



plus more alpaca sweaters than you can shake a stick at....



randomly, a walk to the bus station led us down a road they were digging up but hadnt bothered barriering off. so people were just walking down it. most odd - wouldnt get that in london! that night found a late expedition into cuzco to find some booze with aiden - top lad from cork who wasnt to be found without a smile on his face at any point.



the next day was a bit of a tour of the sacred valley with guide marselino who again, was so passionate and knowledgeable about the area and its history. no question was left unanswered and we were really lucky i think to get such brilliant guides throughout.

mostly this day was about me cooing over the extensive and impressive terracing on the hillsides plus more gorgeous stonework and getting to know our trail-buddies a bit better. a lovely group and a really interesting cross-section of nationalities and backgrounds. you guys rocked!



the scenery was, of course, stunning...



and my new love/obsession for sinobi origami starts to drift into the photos



the day was capped off with possibly one of the best meals ive ever eaten - a gorgeous and idyllic japanese restaurant out there in the middle of nowhere which was surrounded by interesting stuff and things like the bilingual parrot (who says hello in two languages) giant aloe vera (one for you here mum...)



and (also) giant flowerpots. on their side. well...they didnt leave me much choice did they?



more cool stonework in ollyantambo - i mean, seriously. look at the size of these rocks. that was at the top of a huge sodding hill. the mind boggles as to the manpower involved. plus, you couldnt slide a sheet of paper between them - millimetre perfect.


we spent the night there in order to start the lares trek proper the next day. i test-built my sun-themed origami piece to take to macu piccu too, which was pretty hare-brained but actually worked. very exciting stuff!



so, the next day, up hills we went! pretty tough going at that altitude (i think we got to about 3500m that day) but once again, proper good scenery. i saw my first glacier


and heres one of tricky looking proper knackered at the top of the first big pass we did. i think this is my favourite pic of the trip so far ;)



and heres one of us all looking really rather fresh at the highest point of the first day. little did we know what was to come.....



that night we met our porters and got drunk. it was fun. i couldnt sleep because i was stupid enough to bring my thin sleeping bag and think that i could get away with wearing lots of clothes to make up for it. it did mean that at 3 in the morning i went out for a wee and saw what was apparently the southern lights flickering away in a valley a few miles away. very very pretty, unfortunately id left the camera in the big tent where people were asleep so dont have any photos of that :(

day 2 of the trek was, in short, bloody hard work! we got as high as



and it looked like this on the other side of the pass



but what you cant see from this picture is that tricky is pretty much holding me up. once we got past 4000m i couldnt do much other than try not to pass out or throw up. proper wierd feeling is altitude sickness and not one that i care to repeat if im honest. am extremely proud of the achievement but bugger me, that was difficult.

we also met a lot of little communities of people on this day. there are families up there who still live according to the inca traditions and are completely self-sufficient from the potatoes and livestock they keep/grow. was very odd to see the little kids running around doing all this work and really makes you think about the levels of expectation you have from life through living in a city and having the sort of life you do. the catch 22 of the situation of course, is that i could never figure this out as ive been brought up in the more developed world and would never be able to manage living like that. same im sure is true for these people and london - itd just be too much. this is some of the stuff i came here to see though and im very glad i did. a greater sense of awareness of where my life fits into the world feels good, and the truth of whats out there might not always be comfortable but i feel better knowing it.

went to bed at 3pm that afternoon and slept through till the next morning. luckily, the sun came out for a bit when we got to the campsite so i at least got to go to sleep in the relative warm ;)

heres one of the survivors at the highest bit. felt good that did, really good. its quite cool what going through something like that together does for the speed you get to know people and the unity and camiraderie it breeds - i really enjoyed my time with them and hopefully, ill get to see some of them again someday.



third day was all downhill - woop! so after a bit of breakfast


and a little go with some local farming tools



we got to the place where the coach was picking us up and found some kids to entertain with paper things



then it was a coach and train to macu piccu pueblo. a lovely little town thats basically only there to serve as a hotel/restaurant hub for the site itself. as a result, the atmosphere there was definitely one of excitement id say!

stayed out way too late that night and got proper pissed.....pretty difficult not to when everyones so geared up for the next day. problem was, the hotel forgot to give us our wakeup call so we ended up sprinting for the bus on 3 hours sleep and doing that waking-up-halfway-down-the-road thing that happens when you get up late for an interview or some stupid bloody thing like that.

hey ho, on to macu piccu itself and it delivered in every single possible way. i was completely blown away by the fact that not only had the incas figured out how to make this stonework, they also integrated it with the mountain. the temple of the condor is the best example of this. didnt manage to get any pics but go look it up if youre interested. basically they carved the head out of the floor and the wings are these two outcrops of rock that were just there in the right place, facing east.

the whole philosophy of working with the elements and respecting the mountains and the earth was really evident throughout the whole place. i wont go into the history any more than that cos you guys are more than capable of doing that yourselves if you wanna ;) but its definitely worth seeing. a very humbling experience and one that made it even more blindingly obvious how much we're currently screwing things up as a race.

lovely weather too, which apparently isnt normally the case....this is another of my fave pics :)



the plan was basically to do an origami tour of the place (including a specially designed themed trapezoid modular piece - thanks to jenny for the idea!) taking photos is great, but they have to be a little bit individual i rekcon or else you might as well go get some stock shots from the web taken with a much better camera! so heres a few choice ones:







and the headstand shot - just for you sis!



and yup, proper lovely night out last night with pretty much everyone we've seen at various points in the week which was a great end to this leg of the trip. i really cant say enough how lucky i feel we were with the group of people we had. everyone looked after each other, shared, supported and encouraged to the nth degree. most of you guys wont see this for ages (if at all) but i want to say a genuine thank you to all of you for making it so lovely. the guides too, mario, marselino, johann, jose and all the porters did a brilliant line in combining efficiency with making us feel right at home.

so yeah, in conclusion, i reckon we had a top time this week. we've currently had a couple of days in cuzco to chill out and we are mid catching flight(s) to salvador for the beachy, sunny leg of the tour. its been awesome so far, this travelling thing is proper wicked. looking forward to some less structured time on the next bit, a lie-in or two would be nice! (not that im expecting any sympathy ;))

so to sign off, my best proper-grown-up-with-proper-grown-up-facial-hair impression (including once again failing on the sunscreen front and getting a ridiculous vest line.)



dont worry, its gone now. and it wont be back. clearly one way that i definitely SHOULDNT take after my father....

Wednesday 16 September 2009

It Begins.....


ello :)

woohooo!!! we're off!










like the trickster says, bit of a journey....personally i was expexting another plane today but apparently we got a nice plush hotel to stay in instead for the night so thats all good.

amazing views flying from sau paulo to lima. feally makes you feel humle (small even....) looking at things in that detail on that scale. proper good. more pics to follw of that plus cool people on the plane to possily hook up with in cuzco.


i seem to have got into origami in the space of a short period of time...that things got bigger since then. will post further pictures. probably tomorrow when ive stayed up way too late obsessively making something thats essentially litter - just more attractive.









plane food was actually quite tasty despite looking like cubed frozen vomit.....also, i wonder if im gonna get ored of posting pictures of everything that happens ut im currently quite pissed so ill owrk that out later.




so yeah, got to lima and founda restaurant, ate raw fish, drunk cuba libre and beer. all good! we got out meeting for the inca trail to meet our group in a bit. then i reckon more rum is on the cards. resistance training (dobbing style) is gonna be great for the origami technique.

bye for now! x
Good afternoon all!

After 20 hours of travelling and two flights we have now arrived in Lima! Had a very confusing change in Sao Paulo which required us to change terminals at the last minute! We're both feeling quite good for 20 hours of travel, I managed to sleep some on both flights, not sure about Arif.

We are staying in a really posh hotel in Lima for the night before leaving early in the morning to get a flight across the Andes to Cusco where our trekking starts. We will be meeting our tour guide and group later tonight, until then I think a wander out to a local bar and perhaps some food could be in order.

Tricky x

Monday 14 September 2009

Final Prep

so....this is just a test run for the blog really. iv ejust woken up with a stinking hangover after amanda palmer gig last night and we leave tomorrow night. got the final (all ;)) packing to do today and loose ends tomorrow before going off to the airport.

poor tricky has to work today and tomorrow so i dont know if he'll get a chance to post before we get to cuzco but we'll see what happens. you can see our route here if youre interested.


thatll do for now anyway, will be back soon

ax